If you like safaris but you travel on a budget, Malawi is a great alternative to more expensive trips such as South Africa or Tanzania. An organised tour package will probably cost you between 3-5 thousand pounds. But if you choose to organise it independently, it can be a lot cheaper. Keep reading this post for our tips and an indipendent budget itinerary in this beautiful land.
Why we loved Malawi
Malawi is the fifth African country we have visited and we loved it because it is very safe, it is modern enough for travellers to have some comforts but it is still very laid back, very authentic and with beautiful landascapes. Malawi has beautiful mountains, two affordable safaris and a majestic lake and it is perfect for a road trip.
Another thing we loved is the beautiful climate in the dry season, between May and September: it is warm but not too hot, not humid and a bit chilly in the morning and evenings. It is perfect for a vacation during the summer holidays.
And if you want to visit the amazing safari in South Luwanga in Zambia, it is only a 4 hour drive for Lilongwe, the Malawi capital. If you are wondering what this trip would look like, read our post on the self-driving safari in Zambia, which is one of the most amazing places we have been.
How to get around in Malawi
Flights to the capital Lilongwe are frequent and they typically cost £1k per person from Europe. The most common choices are Kenya Airways or Ethiopia Airlines. Once you landed, you have 2 choices. Visit the country by bus or by car.
We opted to have a car but we have met adventurous beautiful people that have travelled the breadth of the country by bus, including an amazing retired nurse who we met in Liwonde Safari Park who enjoyed travelling by bus very much. As Malawi roads can be quite rough, travelling by bus is definitely more uncomfortable, longer but also cheaper.
By bus
Main bus hub: Gateway Mall (Area 47) — best place for long-distance minibuses/coaches (Cape Maclear, Monkey Bay, Zomba, north Malawi)
Bus system reality: No fixed station or strict timetable; you board at roadside and leave when the minibus is full
More comfortable coaches: Some services operate near Gateway Mall (slightly more structured intercity buses)
Online booking: Use platforms like EasyBus Malawi or AXA/Tiketi where available. Pick route, date, pay, and get an e-ticket in advance (best for busy intercity routes like Lilongwe–Blantyre).
In-person booking: Go to coach offices in Lilongwe (City Mall/central offices or company depots). Buy a ticket at the counter for set departure times (most reliable standard option).
By car
Car hire (best option): Kamuzu International Airport — main international rental desks (Avis, Europcar + local firms), easiest pickup on arrival
This is the easiest way to travel Malawi, however here are some tips we learned during our travel:
- make sure you choose a 4×4
- ask the car company for a roadside emergency kit, they come in handy
- make sure you have an extra tank of petrol with you and fill up as often as soon as you have reached the half way mark as there are often fuel shortages in Malawi
2 week Itinerary
We absolutely loved our road trip in Malawi and this is the itinerary we recommend:
- Day 1 in Lilongwe: visit the fabric market and get supplies
- Day 2-4: Liwonde Safari Park
- Day 5- 7: Monkey Bay OR Salima
- Day 8-11: Livingstonia
- Day 12-13: Chinteche (Northern Lake Malawi)
- Last day in Lilongwe: relax
Lilongwe
Where to stay
There are several hotels in the city but the one we absolutely recommend is Latitude 13 Degrees, a beautiful 4 star hotel with a relaxing pool and delicious food. It is in a calm and pretty area full of lovely cafes and restaurants such as Urban cafe, La Cantina, Saffron’s Cafe for delicious indian food and Premier League games and Four Seasons garden and cafe. We were so impressed by the beauty of these cafes and the delicious food. We recommend to visit them all if you have time.
What to do
The fabric market and the wood market in the old town are definitely a must if you like handicrafts and african fabric. The Four seasons garden has also a beautiful shop perfect for souvenir or a little treat for yourself. We also recommend you to stock up on some food supplies before your road trip. The best supermarkets are Food Lover’s Kanengo and Chipuku. If you are very prepared with a cool bag or little fridge box we would recommend to get meat but if not stock up on pasta/rice/tins/bread/some veg you can cook as most places we have visited have cooking facilities you can use and sometimes communal fridges too. This allowed us to save some money but also to be in control of what we ate especially in the rural areas and to be safer.
Also bring drinks and snacks as the choices are limited once you leave Lilongwe.
Liwonde Safari Park
The road trip to Liwonde is pretty good, the road is also in good condition apart from the last bit which is still dirt road. Definitely choosing a 4×4 will make your whole trip so much more comfortable.
On the way to Liwonde, there is a beautiful pottery in Dedza where you can stop for a drink and shop some beautiful pottery. We bought some beautiful mugs with a rustic modern feel.
We camped at the Liwonde Safari Camp, which is absolutely delightful. It lies at the boundaries of the national park and it has no gates so you feel completely inside the nature and it has 2 beautiful viewing decks where you can just watch animals all day. The facilities are rustic and very well kept, we absolutely adored it, especially the showers. We chose to sleep in the dormitory but they also have camping space if you have your own tent or tent box and few lodges which are really pretty and surrounded by nature. At night, the guards will help you to go around the camp as they watch for animals. There are cooking facilities, communal fridge, lounging spaces, viewing decks and lots of books for you to grab and read. They organise both safari and boat safaris which we both enjoyed very much. We saw lions, cheetahs, elephants, crocodiles, buffalos and many antilopes, monkey and beautiful birds. We are not birdwatchers but we fell in love with the birds we saw in this park.
Monkey Bay or Salima
On the way back from Liwonde Park, you can stop at Lake Malawi. We only visited this beautiful lake in Chinteche which is in the north where the water is crystal clear and the landscape is beautiful. However, we have many friends that visited and enjoyed the southern part of the lake in 2 spots: Monkey Bay and Cape Mc Clear and Nankoma Island just off Salima.
Nankoma Island is the most comfortable and convenient location as it is just off Salima and the roads are in better condition. The road to get to Cape McClear is not as comfortable, often dirt road but it takes to a beautiful location.
If you want the classic backpacker Lake Malawi experience, stay around Monkey Bay or Cape Maclear. Good budget and mid-range options include Fat Monkeys Lodge, Thumbi View Lodge, Escapes, and Mgoza Lodge.
For a more luxurious stay, Blue Zebra Island Lodge offers a peaceful boutique island experience inside Lake Malawi National Park, with kayaking, snorkelling, sunset cruises, and a more exclusive atmosphere.
Livingstonia
Next step on the road is northern Malawi. The drive to Mzuzu and then Livingstonia takes about 7-8 hours and it is beautiful. Stock some supplies before leaving or in Mzuzu. Livingstonia is about relaxing, walking in nature and visiting Malawi’s highest waterfall, the Machewe waterfall
Accomodation wise, the best options are Mushrooms Farms, Msasa Mountain Camp and Msasa Mountain Villa. If you like camping in the clouds and a hippy vibe, Mushroom Farms is perfect for you.
We decided to opt for totally relaxation in style and still on a low budget with the Msasa Mountain Villa which has been one of the most stunning holiday homes we ever stayed in. It is fully equipped to cook so we just stayed local cooked, read, relaxed on the most beautiful veranda soaking in the fantastic views of Lake Malawi, played board games (available at the property) and went on walks around the villa. You can walk to the waterfall, to Mushroom Farms for food and drinks and also there are gardens nearby to tour. The staff is incredibly attentive, they can prepare a hot bath outside and bbq/fire pit.
Overall, Livingstonia is one of the parts of Malawi we loved the most and that we would love to go back to.
Chinteche (Northern Lake Malawi)
A couple of hours down the mountain there is a beautiful private lodge on the lake called Makuzi Beach Lodge where you can stay for the day or stay overnight too. The lake here and the surrounding nature are absolutely stunning. We felt we were by the sea, not by a lake and the lodge gardens are so beautiful and relaxing. The food was also really nice and we bought some jams and vanilla produced locally. This is definitely worth staying for one night or two before heading back to Lilongwe.
Last thoughts on Malawi
Malawi is an underrated destination that is definitely worth exploring. We can guarantee that the landscapes, the wildlife, the handicrafts, the food and the people will blow you away. By booking independently, you can have a holiday of a lifetime at a fraction of the price compared to destinations such as Kenya and South Africa.
Still wandering? Have a look at our adventures in Zambia, Malaysia, Vietnam or Thailand.
