Today, we’re taking you to a place that often flies under the radar for many travelers: South Luangwa National Park in Zambia.
TIME OF VISIT: AUGUST 2025
DAYS SPENT: 3 NIGHTS
BUDGET SPENT: 400$ (SELF DRIVING FROM MALAWI) ALL INCLUDED
ENTRANCE TICKET TO THE PARK: 30$ PER PERSON + 15$ PER CAR (SELF DRIVE)
🦓 Why South Luangwa?
Tucked away in the eastern corner of Zambia, South Luangwa is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts seeking an authentic safari experience without the crowds. Spanning over 9,000 square kilometers, the park is renowned for its rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.
🐘 What Makes It Special?
So, why is South Luangwa National Park such a gem? Well, for starters, it’s one of those rare places where you can really feel like you’re in the wild. Unlike the busier safari parks, it’s spacious, quiet, and teeming with life — lions lounging in the shade, elephants wandering by the river, and hippos just doing their hippo thing. Once you get inside South Luangwa and start driving — we self-drove, which made it even more special — you immediately feel lost in the landscape, surrounded by animals at every turn. It’s such an amazing feeling, like you’ve stepped into another world. When we visited, there were barely any other cars around, so it felt like the park was all ours, giving us plenty of quiet moments to watch elephants ambling past, lions lazing in the sun, and birds flitting between the trees. Every turn of the road brought a new surprise, and the sense of freedom and connection to the wild was just unforgettable.
It’s also the birthplace of walking safaris, which means you get to stroll through the bush with an expert ranger and spot wildlife up close. There’s nothing quite like the thrill of seeing a herd of impalas from a few steps away (safely, of course!). We did not try this during our visit but we saw others from a distance doing it. If you are happy to walk miles under the blistering sun, we are sure that this would be an unforgettable experience.
And let’s not forget the birdlife — the park is basically a birdwatcher’s paradise, with everything from colorful kingfishers to elegant eagles. Plus, the scenery is stunning: meandering rivers, open plains, and hidden pockets of forest that feel like secret worlds.
All in all, South Luangwa feels authentic, untamed, and unforgettable — the kind of place that makes you want to slow down, look around, and soak it all in.
🏕️ Where to Stay?
Accommodation in South Luangwa ranges from rustic bush camps to luxurious lodges. Many establishments are located along the Luangwa River, offering stunning views and easy access to game viewing areas.
Staying at Track and Trail Campsite
We decided to stay at the Track and Trail camping site, just outside the main gate of South Luangwa National Park, and it was a fantastic choice. We paid $100 for three nights for a platform where we could pitch our two-person tent — plenty of space for us. The platform is elevated, which meant no worries about snakes or other animals on the ground. Bonus: it comes with a barbecue area, a sink, and two electricity plugs (UK type). Power in Africa can be a bit unpredictable, but we managed to charge our phones whenever the electricity was on.
The campsite has lovely showers and toilets, a small pool, and a bar/restaurant with really nice décor. The food wasn’t anything to write home about — just okay — but the real highlight was the view. The bar looks out over the river, which is part of the national park, so we enjoyed coffee or tea while watching hippos and elephants — all without paying a separate park fee!
Track and Trail is also home to deer and monkeys, and being on the river, hippos, elephants, and even leopards occasionally come through at night. If you want to walk around after dark, you need an escort, but the area where the tents are is protected by an electric fence, so we felt safe.
A word of caution: the campsite is full of monkeys and baboons, which are experts at raiding food and belongings. Always lock your tent, keep your car secured, and watch your food. Knowing there was a barbecue area, we brought a camping stove and some food and meat from home, which helped keep the weekend super cheap.
All in all, Track and Trail was a perfect base for a self-drive safari: safe, scenic, and full of wildlife — plus, it let us have a really authentic and budget-friendly experience.
🕒 When to Visit?
The best time to visit is during the dry season, from May to October. During this period, animals congregate around water sources, making wildlife sightings more frequent. The landscape is also less dense, providing clearer views. We visited in mid-August, which turned out to be perfect timing. The wildlife was abundant — from hippos, lions, zebras, and giraffes to eagles, crocodiles, leopards, and countless bird species. Every drive felt like a new surprise, and the quiet of the park made it feel incredibly personal and wild. And when night fell, the stargazing was out of this world — the sky was so clear and full of stars, it felt like the universe had set up a private show just for us.
Entrance Tickets & Game Drives
If you’re self-driving, getting into South Luangwa is super easy — you can simply buy your entrance tickets at the gate. If you prefer a guided experience, the campsite or online services can help you book day or night game drives. Guided drives usually cost a bit more, but they’re great if you want expert insight into the wildlife and don’t want to navigate yourself.
Guided game drives can be arranged through the campsite, or you can book independently online. Drives are usually around $65 per person if booked through the campsite, but we decided to self-drive.
We paid $35 each for the park entrance, plus an additional $15 fee, and that covered a whole day — meaning we could do both a morning and an afternoon self-drive for the same price.
Self-driving gave us total flexibility and the chance to really take our time spotting wildlife without feeling rushed — plus, it’s a cheaper way to enjoy the park if you’re comfortable behind the wheel.
✈️ Getting There by Air
The most convenient way to reach South Luangwa is by flying into Mfuwe Airport (MFU), located just outside the park. From Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, Proflight Zambia offers regular flights to Mfuwe, taking approximately 70 minutes. Some safari lodges may arrange charter flights from other parks or neighboring countries.
🚗 Self-Driving from Malawi
We self-drove from Lilongwe, Malawi, which took about 4.5 hours on the road. However, we spent roughly 4 hours at the border due to an irregularity with the car’s paperwork — which we eventually solved with patience and a fee. Apparently, if everything is in order, crossing can take about an hour.
The road conditions are generally very good, apart from a stretch on the Zambian side with quite a few potholes. Once you enter Zambia, there’s a Shoprite supermarket where you can stock up on supplies before heading deeper into the park.
With our British/EU passports, we didn’t need a visa to enter Zambia, but make sure to check visa requirements before you travel.
A few practical tips for the drive:
- Download offline maps — they worked perfectly for us.
- Bring food, water, and a full tank of fuel — you never know what might happen on the road in Africa.
Self-driving gave us full flexibility and the chance to explore at our own pace, making the journey part of the adventure.
💰 What We Spent in South Luangwa
| Expense | Cost (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Camping (Track & Trail) | $100 / 3 nights | Elevated platform with BBQ, sink, plugs, showers, pool |
| Park Entrance Fees | $30 pp + $15 vehicle / day | Covers both morning & afternoon self-drives |
| Food & Drinks | ~$60 total | Mostly self-catered, campsite restaurant ~$15–20 per meal per person |
| Guided Game Drives | $65 pp (optional) | We skipped this and self-drove instead |
| Border Fees/Paperwork | Varies/ we spent about 20-30 $ | |
| Groceries (Shoprite) | ~$100 | Stocked up after crossing into Zambia |
| Fuel | Depends on vehicle/ 80 $ to drive and back from Lilongwe including safari drives | Plenty of fuel in Zambia, more scarce in Malawi |
For 2 people, 3 days, we spent around $400 total including petrol and car rental fees. Pretty amazing for such a world-class safari!
🌍 Final Thoughts
If you’re looking for a safari experience that’s off the beaten path, South Luangwa National Park is a destination worth considering. Its combination of rich wildlife, pioneering history, and serene landscapes offers a truly unique adventure.
This is all from us for now. Until next time, happy exploring!
Still wandering? If you liked this post, follow our adventures in Sri Lanka, Penang and West Java.
