DATE OF VISIT: JANUARY 2024
TIME SPENT: 2 NIGHTS
BUDGET SPENT: 135£/ $162 ALL INCLUDED (keep scrolling for detailed budget)
After our soggy but pleasant stay in Da Nang, our next stop was Hoi An — a place I had very high expectations for. Getting there was incredibly easy: we booked a Grab taxi straight from our hotel in Da Nang, and the ride cost around £8–£10 and took roughly 30 minutes (depending on traffic).
For Hoi An, we chose a small guesthouse just a few minutes’ walk from the historic centre. There are countless guesthouses in Hoi An, and many of them are great value, but we specifically wanted somewhere quiet, clean, and close enough to walk everywhere. Our guesthouse ticked all the boxes — nothing fancy, but the room was spotless and comfortable, with an ensuite bathroom, a TV, and a cozy bed. It gave us everything we needed for a short stay.
Even though the street was peaceful, it still had plenty of cafés and restaurants nearby. In fact, right across the road was one of the prettiest cafés we visited in all of Vietnam, (called Anna Spa & Coffee) and home to one of the most beautiful, delicious cup’s of tea of my entire life.
Our honest review of the historic centre
The historic centre of Hoi An is undeniably beautiful. The old yellow buildings, the wooden shutters, the leafy balconies, the colourful shops, and of course the river — everything feels like it has stepped out of a painting. By day it’s charming and atmospheric, but at night it becomes magical. The boats on the river glow with soft coloured lights unlike anything I’ve ever seen anywhere else, and the lantern markets are a dreamy sea of colours. It is truly something you should see at least once in your life — a genuine must-visit.
However… we have to be honest. While the town itself is stunning, the experience can be overwhelming. We felt harassed at every corner — by vendors along the river, by people trying to sell boat rides nonstop, and even inside many shops where shopkeepers followed us around or insisted we buy something. It took away from the relaxed, romantic vibe we had imagined.
Hoi An is absolutely charming, and I’m really glad we saw it, but because it has become so popular, it also feels like a bit of a tourist trap — and that isn’t the kind of atmosphere we enjoy on a holiday.
For us, two nights in Hoi An was plenty to explore the historic centre without feeling rushed. We had enough time to wander the old streets, enjoy the night markets, and take in the beauty of the river — but we also had time to escape the crowds and do a couple of activities outside the old town, which we actually enjoyed even more.
Since the weather blessed us with beautiful sunshine, we booked a coconut boat ride, which was a really fun and relaxing way to experience a different side of Hoi An. Gliding through the quiet waterways surrounded by palm trees felt peaceful and a world away from the hectic old town.
We also spent a day at the seaside, which was another highlight. The beaches near Hoi An are calm, wide, and perfect for unwinding with a drink, a snack, and absolutely no stress — exactly what we needed.
Activities around Hoi An: coconut boat ride and seaside
Since we booked all our accommodation in Vietnam through Booking.com, we earned points that gave us bonus credit to spend on activities — which meant our coconut-boat ride ended up being completely free. Normally, the ride costs around 150,000–200,000 VND (£4.50–£6.20) per boat for two people, plus a small entrance fee of 30,000 VND per person (about £0.90).
We took a Grab to the meeting point at Cam Thanh Village which cost around 65,000 VND (just over £2) and arrived early at about 9–10 a.m. to avoid the crowds. It was peaceful and quiet, and drifting slowly through palm-fringed waterways, surrounded by green trees and calm water, was magical and completely different from the crowded old town, it was one of the highlights of our stay.
On our last day, we left our backpacks at the guesthouse and took a Grab to An Bang Beach (around £2). The beach was calm, tropical and had a chilled vibe that actually reminded us a bit of Brazil. If you order lunch, you can stay on the loungers for free — our seafood lunch with prawns, scallops and spring rolls was absolutely delicious.
After a long, relaxing day by the sea, we treated ourselves to a tasty burger at Bikini Bottom Express, a cool little beachside restaurant perfect for a casual dinner. Then we headed back to our guesthouse, grabbed our backpacks, and our lovely host organised a taxi to Da Nang train station for our 23:30 night train to Nha Trang.
Hoi An: Pros and Cons (our honest take)
⭐ Pros
• Absolutely beautiful historic centre
The yellow-washed buildings, lanterns, wooden shopfronts and old riverside architecture are genuinely stunning — it’s one of the prettiest towns in Vietnam.
• Magical at night
All the lanterns, reflections on the river and the glowing boats create a fairytale atmosphere you won’t experience anywhere else.
• Great cafés and restaurants
Hoi An has some of the best brunch spots, cute cafés, and excellent Vietnamese food in the region.
• Fun activities nearby
You can escape the busy centre and enjoy relaxing experiences like the coconut boat ride, cycling the rice fields, or spending the day at An Bang Beach.
• Affordable
Guesthouses, meals, and taxis are cheap, making it a budget-friendly stop despite being so popular.
⚠️ Cons
• Very touristic — and feels like it
Hoi An is one of the most visited places in Vietnam, and the centre is often extremely crowded.
• Constant harassment from vendors
This was the biggest downside for us. On the river, in the markets, and even inside shops, you’re approached constantly to buy things — and it can ruin the charm.
• Less authentic than other parts of Vietnam
Because it’s so curated for tourism, it doesn’t have the same local feel as places like Da Nang, Ninh Binh, or Hue.
• Night river area can feel overwhelming
While beautiful, the lantern boat area is packed with tourists, selfie sticks and noise — not everyone enjoys that.
• Tailor shops everywhere
Some people love getting clothes made here, but the aggressive sales approach isn’t for everyone.
Our Verdict: Is Hanoi worth it?
Hoi An is stunning and 100% worth seeing once in your life — especially at night.
But if, like us, you prefer quieter destinations and fewer tourist traps, 2 nights is more than enough. Enjoy the beauty, do the activities outside the centre, and then move on to somewhere more authentic.
Top 5 Eats in Hoi An
- Madam Queen Bánh Mì (Historic Town) – Quick, fresh, and tasty sandwiches without the crazy queues. Perfect for a cheap, delicious lunch on the go.
- Bikini Bottom Express (An Bang Beach) – Fun, laid-back burger spot with relaxed vibes near the sand. Great for a break from noodles and rice.
- Morning Glory Restaurant (Historic Town) – A more polished spot to try local Hoi An dishes like cao lầu and white rose dumplings. Delicious food in a charming, traditional setting.
- Bánh Bao Bánh Vạc “White Rose” (Historic Town) – Small family-run place famous for Hoi An’s signature dumplings. Soft, delicate, and full of flavour.
- Seaside Lunch Spots (An Bang Village) – Many restaurants let you use loungers for free when ordering lunch. Fresh seafood like prawns, scallops, and spring rolls with a quiet, chilled beach vibe.
Our budget/ what we spent
Below is what we spent during our 2-night stay in Hoi An — useful if you’re planning a Hoi An visit on a budget.
| Category | Cost (£) | Cost ($) |
|---|---|---|
| 🚕 Taxi to/from Da Nang | 20 | 24 |
| 🏨 Accommodation (2 nights) | 40 | 48 |
| 🍴 Food (3 days) | 35 | 42 |
| 🚖 Taxis around Hoi An / Da Nang | 10 | 12 |
| 🎟️ Activities (free, would cost) | 10 | 12 |
| 🛍️ Shopping / souvenirs | 20 | 24 |
| 💰 Total | 135 | 162 |
Hoi An is undeniably beautiful with its lantern-lit streets, river ambience, and surrounding activities — but it can also feel heavily touristy and crowded. In this Hoi An travel review, we found that 2 nights is ideal for taking in the highlights, exploring quieter spots like boat rides and beaches, and then moving on to somewhere with a more relaxed vibe. If you love history and scenery, it’s worth a visit… but for travellers who prefer truly local experiences, the old centre might feel too curated and busy.
Still wandering? If you liked this post, read about our adventures in the rest of Vietnam, or check our posts on Singapore, Bangkok and Penang.
